10/21/2014

The Fiber and Rug Merchant in Oregon Wine Country

              Maybe it was in the souks of Marrakessh?  We were there almost 40 years ago.  We walked down the narrow, twisting, intertwined alleyways.  Merchants and craftsman were elbow to elbow in their open shops. Stepping around a tiny donkey loaded with heavy crates of Coke Cola, we headed down an alley with brightly covered wool roving hung like lanterns between the buildings.  The sun came filtered through the shades of red, yellow, gold, green, and browns.  There was the tap, tap, of a floor loom.  Children, no more than 9 or 10 spun thread with ornate drop spindles.  We were in the Rug souk of  Marrakessh..
              Men in striped jalabas smiled at us and patted at a pile of rugs they sat on as we walked by.  Row upon row of shops full of very similar rugs, it is a mystery to me what makes a person stop and look at a particular pile of rugs.  A wrinkled man with a white mustache and a wide smile greeted us in German.  We looked blank.  He tried French.  Americans we said, he nodded, and called back through a curtain at the back of the shop.  A teenage boy in a white jalaba came out to greet us.  He spoke with a slight American southern accent.  They were Berbers, he explained.   This was his uncle’s shop.  The family was from the Atlas Mountains not far from Fez.  They had just delivered some of the most beautiful rugs they had ever made.  We were extremely lucky to happen upon his uncle's shop. 
            The old man began to roll out one beautiful rug after another.  Here, feel the fiber.  Look at the backing.  We knelt down, felt the wool, admired the strong backing and the elegant design.  These rugs are made to last a lifetime, several life times.  And as I type this I look down at one of the rugs, just as beautiful as that day we first saw it.
            During this year's Art Harvest Studio Tour I think Elizabeth was remembering that day in the rug souk of Marrakessh as she rolled out her rugs for a young couple that came by her studio.  They felt the fiber.  They felt the quality of the backing.  They admired the design.  And they took one of her rugs home with them.
            It was a good Tour.